At the top of the main street a flight of blue steps climbs beside the mosque to a doorway that has been serving tea since the 18th century. Inside, the Café des Nattes — "café of the mats" — is exactly what the name promises: rush matting on raised platforms, painted columns, low tables, and a view down the street through an arched window.
This is the room where the village’s reputation was made. Paul Klee and August Macke came through in 1914, Gide before them, Simone de Beauvoir and Sartre after. Foucault taught in Tunis and drank here. None of that is advertised, and the tea is still served the same way: green tea, fresh mint, and a spoon of toasted pine nuts floating on top.
- Area: In the village
- The famous blue staircase
- Mint tea with pine nuts
- Artists’ colony history
Top things to do at Café des Nattes
Order the thé aux pignons
Mint tea with pine nuts is the local order and worth having at least once. Ask for it "pas trop sucré" if you do not want it syrupy. There is also thé aux amandes, with almonds, which some prefer.
Sit on the mats, not the chairs
The platforms at the back are the original café. They are low, you take your shoes to the edge, and they are considerably more atmospheric than the terrace tables — which do, however, have the view.
Try a bambalouni next door
The village’s other institution is a doughnut: fried to order at the stand near the steps, rolled in sugar, eaten immediately and far too hot. Roughly the price of nothing, and better than it has any right to be.
Compare it with the Café des Délices
The other famous café is further along the cliff, overlooking the marina. Nattes has the history; Délices has the panorama. Doing both in one afternoon is a perfectly reasonable plan.
How to get to Café des Nattes
- At the top of Rue Habib Thameur, immediately beside the mosque — you cannot miss the blue staircase.
- Around a ten-minute walk uphill from the TGM station.
Insider tips
- Prices are noticeably higher than a normal Tunisian café. You are paying for two hundred years of view; most people decide it is worth it once.
- Cash is easiest. There is an ATM down by the roundabout, not at the top of the village.
- Late afternoon into sunset is the best time — and also the busiest, so a weekday beats a weekend.
- A light jacket helps on winter evenings: the terraces catch the wind off the gulf.
Café des Nattes FAQs
Frequently asked questions
Is the Café des Nattes worth it?
For the setting, yes — it is one of the oldest and most atmospheric cafés in North Africa and the view down the street is superb. Expect tourist pricing and service that can be slow when it is busy.
Do I need to book?
No, it does not take reservations. At peak times you may wait a few minutes for a table; the mats at the back usually clear faster than the window seats.
What else should I eat in Sidi Bou Said?
Bambalouni doughnuts by the steps, grilled fish at the marina restaurants, and brik — a crisp fried pastry with egg inside — almost anywhere. A guided food-oriented walk is the easiest way to try several in one go.
